Italian v. British-converted
                     Italian v. British: Which suit  
style is right for you?
When thinking about the gold standard of suits, the top two countries that are the leaders in
the world’s best construction of bespoke suits are the British and the Italians. This is because  
both countries have exceptional techniques that have been passed down from-generation-to-  
generation. Due to these traditions and world-class tailoring, the Italians and British have  
created suits that fit the personalities of men that are as opposite as they are. Each country  
lends a different persona to the suits they create: The British are more traditional and  
conservative, whereas the Italians are cool, comfortable, and individualistic with a touch of  
flair. But no matter which style persona you take, both suit styles will make you feel like you 
 can grace the cover of a GQ Magazine.
The British Influence – Puffy & Posh
The British are known for their deep traditional values, the aristocracy, and the monarchy, so  
it’s not surprising that much of the British suit styles are influenced by the wealthy upper  
class, landed gentry, and military officers. Strict and conservative social norms throughout  
the centuries have greatly influenced what the men of each era wore. The British man is  
known for his impeccable dress but must also blend in with his comrades. The “stiff-upper
lip” persona is evident in the British suit style, where tradition and a man’s sense-of-duty to  
family and country are of the utmost importance. As such, his suit style portrayed an air of  
tradition and order.
The Italian Influence – Athletic & Flashy
Just like the warm, breezy, and colorful climate of the Mediterranean, Italians are more easy-  
going and have a passion for life and love. The same is reflected in the style of their suits,  
especially the cuts and fabrics. Due to the warm weather, Italian suits are lightweight and the  
fabrics are breathable and soft. They don’t conform but, rather, showcase each man’s  
individual style.
What’s your suit persona – British or 
 Italian?
The British Gentleman
If you’re more conservative and traditional, then you probably prefer to wear a British suit.  
You like to dress correctly, and you make sure that all elements of your suit are presented  
with precision. You want to come across as a true gentleman with a sophisticated attitude.  
You prefer durable fabric and a practical look. The colors you choose are neutral and earthy,  
and tend to be on the gray and monotoned scale, just like the rainy and overcast climate of the  
UK.
The Italian Casanova
You want to feel like, and be seen as, an attractive man while showing your flair for life. You  
follow the latest fashions trends but also want to stand out and make a statement. You like to  
present yourself as chic, relaxed, and cool, and like to be comfortable but stylish. Your suit  
colors are vibrant and free like the warm Mediterranean climate of Italy. Whether you’re  
sipping an espresso at a café or are going out for a night on the town, you always want to turn 
 heads and make a lasting impression.
What’s your suit fit – British or Italian?
The British Suit Style
The British suit is cut closer to the body and has a narrower and defined shoulder with higher  
armholes. Coats can be single or double-breasted. The fabric is heavier, stiffer, and there’s  
more padding added to the shoulders. Trousers generally have a high waist and with two to  
three pleats that offer shape. Although the suits are fairly fitted, they are not boxy or too slim.  
They contour and precisely fit each body type.
The Italian Suit Style
When thinking about the Italian suit, it’s all about setting a trend and making an impression.  
The cut tends to be slim and sleek, and offers a modern tone. The fabric is lighter, there’s less  
padding, and the jackets have two vents. They’re also shorter and tight-fitting, and have a  
predominant V-shape. Trousers have a tapered waist, and hips are more fitted to the body.
Italian style is categorized by Roman, Neapolitan, and Milanese influence.
What’s the Franco Fit?
The Franco Fit is a garment, shirt, trouser, or jacket that is perfectly fitted to your body shape.  
It conforms to your body – when you wear a jacket or a trouser, you’re not wearing someone  
else’s wardrobe – you own it, it belongs to you, it was made specifically for your body shape  
and type. When you purchase anything at Franco Uomo—whether it’s off-the- rack or fully  
custom—we make sure to fit that garment to your body shape, size, and type. It’s the fit  
guarantee.
Is the Franco Fit influenced by the  
British or Italian style? The Franco Fit isn’t inspired by both.
This is because we look at your body shape, and based on your shape, we make sure the suit
is fitted accordingly. For example, if a customer has square shoulders, we’re not going to give  
him a British-inspired shoulder fit. We’re going to give him a Napoleon-inspired shoulder  fit
—it’s thinner and it doesn’t raise the shoulder higher. On the other hand, if a customer has  a 
sloping shoulder, we’ll give him more of a British look. The style is dictated based on the  
customer’s body shape, and we take that into consideration. We put all those options on the  
table for our customers, we educate them, and we make a collective decision based on their  
personal needs. What shoulder type does Franco Uomo  
recommend for their customers?
There are different types of shoulder styles on the market. Here are the few we use at  
Franco Uomo:
• The Natural Shoulder - also known as ‘The American Shoulder’—it follows the  
natural slope of the shoulder but has padding for a structured look.
• The High Sleeve - also known as the ‘Rope Shoulder’—the sleeve construction is  
slightly raised in relation to the shoulder, which forms a ridge. The higher the  
sleeve, the more striking the shoulder line appears.
• The Neapolitan Shoulder - identical to the Italian shoulder—relaxed and without  
an air of formality or heaviness—but has puckering or slight shirring.
Our recommendation depends on what the customer wants, and the customer’s body  
dictates the type of shoulder he has. For example, if the customer has a sloping  shoulder, 
a Neapolitan shoulder wouldn’t be right for him because it wouldn’t be as  flattering to 
his shoulder shape and size, so we would recommend a high sleeve  shoulder (rope 
shoulder) to give him the height that would complement his shoulder  breadth. On the 
other hand, if someone has a square shoulder, we wouldn’t recommend  a high sleeve 
shoulder; we would recommend a Neapolitan shoulder.