Raising Rheas  For Beginners
                     Raising Rheas
Ratites are a group of birds that includes ostriches, emu, rheas, cassowaries, and kiwis. Lacking the 
large keel on the breast bone where flight muscles attach, these birds are unable to fly. No ratites 
exist in the wild in North America; all were imported from Australia, Africa, or South America.
The most economically important species of ratites are the ostrich and the emu, with the rhea a 
distant third. The cassowary is rare and is not considered to have any economic importance, while 
the kiwi is an oddity and is virtually absent from North America except for a few in zoos.
Production
Ratite management is similar to both livestock and poultry management. Adults are hardy and are 
able to withstand most of Oregon’s weather challenges as long as they are protected from extremes.
Incubation
Egg incubation often creates problems because most growers have little or no general knowledge of 
poultry and even less knowledge of incubation. Like chicken, turkey, and other bird eggs, ratite 
eggs require constant incubation conditions for maximum hatchability.
Even minor variations can be detrimental.
However, there has-been little scientific research concerning the incubation and hatching of ratite 
eggs, so most current knowledge is from growers.
Length of incubation, temperature, and humidity suggestions vary greatly, so use the suggestions 
below only as guidelines. Hatching time varies from 36–45 days for ostrich eggs, 46–56 days for 
emu eggs, and 36–44days for rhea eggs.
Requirements for relative humidity during incubation also vary with species: 10–40 percent(usually 
around 20 percent) for ostrich eggs, 35–55 percent(usually around 40 percent) for emu eggs, and 
40–55 percent(usually around 45 percent) for rhea eggs.
Virtually no standard exists for minimum acceptable level of fertility or hatchability in ratite eggs. 
Therefore, the determination of good versus poor fertility and hatchability is unknown. In most 
cases, if you obtain at least 50 percent hatchability of all eggs set, you probably are doing well.
Unless you intend to contract incubation and hatching with another producer, you’ll need a forced-
draft incubator able to maintain a constant temperature of between 96 and 99.5°F.Temperature for 
incubating ratite eggs is around 96.5°F.Incubators vary in cost and capacity. 
Some cost only about$500, while others cost more than$9,000. The incubators of choice seem to be 
on the extreme ends of the cost spectrum. Any incubator is adequate as long as optimal temperature, 
humidity, ventilation, turning, etc. can be maintained.
During incubation, most ostrich and rhea growers set eggs vertically in the incubator trays, with the 
blunt end up. Emu growers set eggs on their sides. Eggs must be turned at least 3 to5 times per day 
and up to 12 to24 times per day.
There is no conclusive evidence of the best position or turning times for ratite eggs. We have used 
poultry information here and modified it to provide a starting point for these species.
Three to 5 days before eggs are expected to hatch, transfer them to a separate incubator used only 
for hatching. Do not turn the eggs after transfer. As light lowering of temperature(1°F) and an 
increase in relative humidity (5 to 10 percent) maybe beneficial.
Ratite eggs need to lose between 10 and 18 percent of their weight (in moisture loss) to hatch 
properly. Most growers weigh eggs weekly to monitor water loss.
If the eggs are not losing the proper amount of moisture, you may need to change the relative 
humidity. Many producers maintain several incubators at different humidity levels and move eggs 
as needed. Others cover parts of the shell with tape or fingernail polish to reduce water loss, or sand 
away part of the shell to increase water loss.
These practices are easy with a few eggs, but become impractical when more eggs are produced. 
Their effectiveness is unproven. Many growers routinely wash eggs with water and sanitizers. 
However, it is best not to wash eggs. Instead, set only nest clean eggs. If washing eggs is necessary, 
use only warm water(110–120°F) and approved hatching egg sanitizers.
Fumigation of eggs with formaldehyde gas is becoming rare due to health risks and government 
requirements, and, therefore, probably should not be used. Many growers use disinfectants prior to 
incubating. It is important to follow instructions that come with these products to avoid potential 
disaster.
Brooding
Early chick management of ratites is similar to that of chickens, turkeys, or game birds. Like most 
birds, ratite chicks are cold-blooded; they cannot sustain their body temperature from metabolism 
alone. They need supplemental heat for up to 4 months, depending on conditions.
Heat can be supplied from above with lights or heaters, or from below with heated mats or floors. 
Many growers use heat lamps.
It is imperative that the birds be given an area with a range of temperatures so they can select the 
temperature they require. If they get cold, they can move to a warmer area and vice versa.
As the chicks age, their metabolism catches up and they become warm-blooded, i.e., able to 
maintain body temperature. This change takes several weeks. It is important to help this process 
along by reducing supplemental heat gradually.
Avoid abrupt changes. Many growers believe inside pens with outside runs are required for proper 
growth in ratite chicks. This system allows protection from inclement weather as well as outside 
access for exercise, which may promote good leg formation and strength. Some growers brood 
chicks inside for only a few days before placing them outside with supplemental heat for cool 
nights.
Ratites usually are brooded on solid flooring, although wire floored brooding areas also can be 
used. If using wire floors, take care to avoid drafts and to ensure that the birds’ legs do not become 
stuck in the wire. Half inch wire probably is sufficient.
Litter floors (sawdust shavings, straw, etc.) can be a problem, especially for ostrich chicks. Young 
ostriches and possibly rhea will eat almost anything, especially litter, which can block the intestines, 
usually resulting in death. The problem may be reduced if chicks are placed on litter immediately 
after hatching instead of several days later.
Work at Oregon State University suggests that emu chicks perform well on wood shavings as litter 
or on chopped grass straw. Absorbent litter reduces labor by decreasing the time required to clean 
pens.
Solid surfaces, such as concrete overlaid with rubber mats, are becoming increasingly popular. 
Packed dirt or sand that is free of foreign material such as stones, wire, string, nails, etc. seems to be 
adequate.
However, hard floors are difficult to clean, and as the birds age, pen floors become heavily soiled 
and virtually uncleanable.
Growing
Afterabout1–2 months, ratites usually are grown in outside pensor pastures. At this age, they usually 
can tolerate normal weather conditions. However, extremes always are a concern.
There is no consensus about optimum pen size or shape. Some growers use long, narrow pens, 
while others are successful with square pens. Sizes range from 20' x 20' to several acres.
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